Sabato De Sarno's debut in the Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection has reportedly brought a fresh perspective to the renowned fashion house. His "Ancora" manifesto, meaning "again" in Italian, was evident throughout the collection, aiming to reinterpret classic styles with a joyful expression.
De Sarno's vision was apparently to offer a sophisticated and glamorous take on the traditional man's wardrobe, appealing to a global clientele. The show, set in Milan's Fonderia Carlo Macchi, featured neutral suits with broader structures designed specifically for the male form. De Sarno introduced Gucci Rosso, a pivotal color from his Spring 2024 collection, which became a central theme.
However, despite these efforts, some fans expressed discontent with the latest collection, and some felt that there was nothing original about it, believing that the fashion house is "running out of ideas."
This sentiment captured a sense of unfulfilled expectations among a portion of the audience.
Fans reacting to Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection express their discontent
Fans' reactions to Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection varied, with some expressing disappointment and longing for past designers. Comments ranged from missing Tom Ford's influence to criticisms about the similarity to the women's fashion show.
Others felt the collection lacked innovation, noting how the "same womens looks, same music" were repeated, which made the show appear "lazy" to them. Meanwhile, yet another questioned the vision behind this collection, calling it "lacklustre" and missing the "vision of menswear."
Questions about the inclusion of purses and the alleged emasculation of men were also raised, along with more controversial remarks regarding the collection's appeal to specific demographics.
Details about Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection
Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection showcased De Sarno's strategic approach, balancing creative expression with sales considerations.
Gucci Rosso dominated the collection, coloring leather jackets, jacquard shirts, sweaters, and various leather goods. The collection emphasizes poise with sharply tailored trench coats, blazers, and zip jackets. Trousers were mostly straight and pleated, adhering to formal dress codes, though some denim pieces hinted at streetwear potential.
A part of the Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection veered towards more exploratory designs. This included overcoats with crystal studs and feathered finishes and a half-button sweater with a glossy hood. These pieces, while potentially appealing to bold fashion enthusiasts, articulated de Sarno's manifesto of freedom and euphoria.
The Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection culminated in reinterpretations of the black-and-white tuxedo, featuring asymmetrical ties and double-breasted blazers.
The final piece was a dramatic cape-like coat, completing the Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection.
The Gucci FW24 Milan Fashion Week menswear collection, while embodying Sabato De Sarno's "Ancora" manifesto and introducing new elements like Gucci Rosso, faced mixed reactions from fans.
While some appreciated the sophistication and glamor, others missed the influence of former designers and questioned the collection's innovation and direction. This diversity of opinions highlights the challenging balance between heritage and innovation in the dynamic world of fashion.