Schiaparelli Couture show: 3 things that stood out in Daniel Roseberry’s surreal collection

Modified Jan 25, 2022 17:58 GMT

Mason Schiaparelli Haute Couture summer spring 2022 collection(Image via Sportskeeda)

On Monday, January 24, 2022, the Schiaparelli house kicked off fashion week with its Spring-Summer 2022 Haute-Couture collection. On the catwalk, the silhouettes were embellished with jewels and their ingenious application.

Daniel Roseberry designed the collection with a few questions on his mind and to express his train of thought, he devised a fabulous, surreal collection. Lending a cogent explanation regarding his work, Roseberry stated:

"There is also the pervasive sense of exhaustion we all feel: That churn of red-carpet appearances, award shows, even fashion presentations—something about it feels lackluster. Aren’t we all exhausted by all of it? What does fashion mean, what does fashion have to say, in an era in which everything is in flux? And, with regards to this Maison, what does surrealism mean when reality itself has been redefined?"

Three high points of Schiaparelli Haute-Couture SS22 Paris Runway collection

1) All the looks were in Black, Gold, or White

Daniel Roseberry wanted to try something different for this year's summer collection. He realized that color and volume weren't the way to go. He wanted to achieve grandeur without big silhouettes or colors. Roseberry designed art from three colors: black, white, and gold and made a move towards elemental designs.

Giving his words of excitement, Daniel wrote on the house's official website:

"Throughout the 23 fittings for this collection, I realized that what felt exciting in this moment was something different, something restrained. Suddenly, color felt wrong to me. So, did volume."

Furthermore, he revealed the need to move towards elemental aspects:

"All we needed, I realized, was black, white, and gold—yet it wasn’t so much a return to basics as it was a move towards the elemental." He added.

2) Surrealist Summer in Paris for Schiaparelli

Gleaned from surrealist notions, Roseberry stated the intention behind his designs:

"After two years of thinking about the Surreal, I found myself instead thinking about the empyreal: The heavens as a place to escape from the chaos of our planet, but also the home of a mythical high priestess, at once goddess and alien, who might in fact walk among us. "

We are all aware of Daniel's side where he experimented with surrealism. He took the Creative Director position at Schiaparelli in 2019 and we have seen him experimenting with the edges of surrealism ever since.

His collection last year at Paris Fashion week was also based upon the same theme and received a lot of positive reviews. This year's exhibition was also themed between Surrealism and Existentialism. Regarding his ethos behind these designs, Roseberry stated:

"I imagined a being whose very clothes defied rules of gravity: She would wear razor sharp tailoring, with nipped waists and oversized “dove” collars ready to take flight. She would wear a short cream duckbill-backed jacket of tailors “U.S.” cotton toile, embroidered with vintage Schiaparelli palm trees that actually lifted themselves from her shoulders and stood upright at attention. "

He further revealed:

"And finally, after the rigor of tailoring and exhausting a new, sharper silhouette, she would embrace her inner Folly - giving way to fountains of gold, black plumage, creepy crawlies in cabochons, and a crystal cocktail dress like the inside of a jewelry box."

3) Redefinition of Schiaparelli gold : A look into Golden jewelry box

This season's collection was a realm around reconceiving the idea of gold, all 32 looks emphasized upon the signature golden accessories and the pieces of jewelry that were wrapped around models' bodies.

But what stole attention was the centerpiece of the collection, the "Jewel Cage" dress, which was crafted from hand-molded leather. It was embossed in ornaments, accentuating its divinity.

These designs weren't as perfect as the hard work exerted by the label to make it happen. Regarding the immense amount of effort put into this collection, Roseberry stated:

"We have worked for seasons to perfect the shade—neither warm nor cool, neither brassy nor rose, this gold has been specifically formulated for the house, and includes pieces of 24k gold leaf."