Who is Peter Do? 5 major trends from his debut collection at NYWF

Peter Do at his debut collection in NYFW
Helmut Lang debut collection in NYFW ( image via Instagram/ Helmut Lang)

Peter Do, the hyped designer at the New York Fashion Week Spring 2024, has shut the noisy studio with his outstanding debut collection on September 8. As the creative director of Helmut Lang, this was his first runway where he infused Helmut Lang's aesthetics with his calm aura.

Peter Do is a Vietnamese-born talent who graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology and bagged numerous awards like the LVMH Young Designer Prize, LVMH graduate prize winner, and more. In 2018, he founded an eponymous fashion brand where he continued to experiment with his creative endeavors.

In the earlier part of 2023, Peter Dough had been selected as the creative director of Helmut Lang and gave a statement.

“No one embodied radical thinking more definitively than Helmut Lang. It is my deep honor to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of Helmut Lang’s legacy. I am excited to learn from the foundations this house stands on and to continue creating new, energetic clothes that inspire people to challenge their understanding of what is possible when it comes to expressing their individuality.”

After joining the brand, Peter started working on the New York Fashion Week Spring 2024 collection. The ongoing fashion week has proved his hard work, virtuoso, and the expertise he garnered from his early days when he co-worked with Celine's Phoebe Philo.

However, being the sophomore designer at the New York Fashion Week Spring 2023, Peter Do's collection was the most anticipated one, and his runway was the most talked about session this fashion week.

Here are five creative styles of the designer that were spotted at his show.


Peter Do's creativity in his debut collection revisited Helmut Lang's vintage marketing strategy

1) The old marketing technique

Helmut Lang was the first brand that thought of visual marketing through New York taxis in 1998. Peter Do revisited the archived documentation and reflected them in his debut collection.

Terming the theme 'Born to go,' this designer has adorned his models with the taxi belt strap in fuchsia stain fabric like the cross-body bags. He added the vibrant-colored taxi belt strap in a black-and-white silhouette blazer to align the taxi with the busy New York City theme.

H painted a cross-body patch design on the tan-hued blazer in some dresses to create the taxi driver look.


2) A poetic runway

The creativity level reaches the pinnacle when artistry visits the poetic realm and Peter Do's guests witness something like that. As an emerging designer of NYFW, Peter has scripted his outfit collection with quotes from the poet Ocean Vuong, while the runway was also scripted of his odes.

A model walked through the scripted runway in a white crew neck sweatshirt where the quote from Ocean was etched.

"Touch me so I know I am still here/ Break me so I know I have changed"

Some models wore white shirts and scripted prints on the runway, which celebrated the ode of the Ocean.

The quote embedded tee shirt In the Helmut Lang collection ( image via Getty Image)
The quote embedded tee shirt In the Helmut Lang collection ( image via Getty Image)

3) Color-blocking trends

The New York Fashion Week Spring 2024 has witnessed several new trends, and color blocking is one of them. Peter has reiterated it. He added some pop-up colors in the basic shades of black and white to discard the monotonous vibe.

Color blocking trend at the Helmut Lang's debut collection ( image via Getty)
Color blocking trend at the Helmut Lang's debut collection ( image via Getty)

He chose a fuchsia, red, and yellow color scheme to pair with the white and black silhouette. A model wore a black top, which gets the red border work, and a sheer yellow pleat perfectly amplifies the color-blocking trend.

The color-blocking pattern on the yellow silhouette ( image via Getty)
The color-blocking pattern on the yellow silhouette ( image via Getty)

4) The Amalgamation of Lang and Do

Technically, Helmut Lang and Peter Do have contrasting artistic styles where Lang accentuates the edgy and bold design, and Do has the serene vibe. However, the New York Fashion Week brought them together. In the debut collection, Do has amalgamated the edgy and stern structures with his minimalist aesthetics.

A model in Peter Do's design ( Image via Getty)
A model in Peter Do's design ( Image via Getty)

One can see how he worked on the amalgamation when his models wore the balloon shimmery skirt with the turtle neck top. The jumpers in denim and androgynous jackets have carried Helmut's hallmark with Do's eye-soothing color aesthetics.

The balloon skirt with turtle neck top at Helmut Lang ( Image via Getty)
The balloon skirt with turtle neck top at Helmut Lang ( Image via Getty)

5) The retro formal is the new casual

One highly visible clothing piece of the entire collection was the structured blazer with the formal pants, symbolizing Helmut's wardrobe. Do has reformed Lang's archived pieces with modern aesthetics.

Formal shirt with modern twists at Helmut Lang collection ( Image via Getty)
Formal shirt with modern twists at Helmut Lang collection ( Image via Getty)

On the blazer, Do has mixed the color of the ochre yellow and brown palette to create a flowy look where he also splashed the fuchsia color on the white trousers for the popped-up visuals.


Peter Do has stunned the fashion world with his unique fashion virtuoso. This camera-shy designer with a black mask has created a unique fashion genre with minimalistic and basic colorways. These five trends from his debut collection will fill Helmut Lang's shelves in early 2024, and one must anticipate till then.

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Edited by Ivanna Lalsangzuali
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